FAQ's

In heavy clay soil, we recommend digging a hole about 6" wider than the root ball. Dig the hole slightly more shallow that the root ball height, so that approx. 1/3 of the root ball will remain above the soil level. This will alleviate potential drainage problems. Mix an equal amount of amended soil with the backfill soil. For acid loving plants (such as rhododendrons, azaleas, evergreens & dogwoods) add Iron to the backfill as well.

Remove all plants from plastic containers. If roots are entangled, cut vertically down or gently loosen. For balled & burlapped plants, place the plant into the hole, cutting any cords or ropes from around the trunk. Pull the burlap back away from the trunk. Do not remove the wire cage around the root ball. It will not impede the growth of the tree, and disturbing the roots could cause the plant to go into transplant shock.

Tamp the soil down firmly around the root ball, and water in thoroughly to remove any air pockets. Mulch the exposed root ball to a depth of 3" with mulch , keeping the trunk clear of mulch.

We recommend utilizing Fertilome Root Stimulator and a regular watering regimen on all plants until established (at least 1-2 years), particularly through hot/dry months. See further information on watering.

Anytime the ground is not frozen, you can plant/transplant. We recommend planting when it works for you & your schedule, and when the selection of the plants you are looking for is the best. There are considerations to make when planting in the summer. Due to the typically hot, dry weather, a watering routine is crucial for your plant to thrive and to minimize the chance of transplant shock. We also recommend using Fertilome Root Stimulator regularly, per the label directions. Tender annuals such as Impatients, Periwinkle, or Geraniums and Vegetables (like tomatoes and peppers) must wait for frost free nights. Our average last frost date in Evansville is April 13th.

*All evergreens (Including broadleaf evergreens such as azaleas, rhododendrons, pieris), dogwoods, redbuds, oaks, birches & magnolias.

For plants installed in the landscape, the best practice is to water slowly, for a longer period of time; enough to allow the soil to become thoroughly wet to the depth of the original root ball (or container). This helps the roots to establish. Soaker hoses are ideal for this type of watering. Be sure if you are using a hose, you have it at a slow trickle for 20-30 minutes. Newly planted trees & shrubs require watering weekly (if we are not receiving the equiv. of 1" of rain per week) for 1-2 years. Maintain a watering schedule from spring until the ground freezes in the fall. Avoid exposing the foliage to prolonged periods of moisture.

For smaller plants such as annuals (planted in the ground), perennials and groundcovers, the root systems are smaller & more shallow. They should be deeply watered every 3-4 days (if we are not receiving rain). In very hot or dry weather, more frequent watering may be needed.

For annuals/tropical plants planted in containers or hanging baskets, we recommend that they be checked daily for watering needs. Be sure to check below the soil suface. A moisture meter may be helpful. Hanging baskets are particularly susceptible to drying out, and during very hot, dry or windy conditions, they may require watering twice daily. Particularly if they are located near walls, walks & patios of stone, concrete or brick.

Six or more hours per day.

The ideal situation for most 'partial sun' plants is either morning sun, or filtered sunlight. (Typically, afternoon sun situations are going to be too hot for most partial sun plants, even if it is fewer than 6 hours.)

Note: You may prune anytime to remove dead/diseased or broken limbs.

There are a few reasons this might occur:

• They may need divided.
• They may need fertilized; use bulb food available in the fall at Comb's Landscape and Nursery.
• If foliage was cut down too soon previously, the bulbs may not have regained the necessary energy for the following bloom cycle; we recommend leaving foliage in place until it dies back naturally.
• Animals; there are bulbs that critters dislike, and those can be planted with the ones they do, as a deterrent. Also, you can utilize chicken wire over the bulbs under the soil to prevent them from being dug up. You may be able to use repellents, but they need re-applied.